Dear travelers,
Have you ever lived in a city that feels like it was designed by Wes Anderson after a very good glass of wine? I do. Pastel façades, a river lined with cafés, bridges guarded by dragons and a castle watching over everything like a slightly overprotective parent. Welcome to my Ljubljana.
Whenever friends tell me they’re coming for a weekend, they always ask the same question: is 48 hours enough? I get it. Two days in London barely covers the queue at the Tower. But Ljubljana is different. It’s small, it’s walkable, and it still manages to fill every hour with something worth remembering (and something worth eating).
So here’s exactly how I’d plan your 48 hours if you were visiting me: the places I send every friend, the spots where locals actually hang out, and the little tips nobody tells you until you live here.
Before You Go: A Few Things Worth Knowing
Ljubljana rewards you for slowing down. The Old Town centre is largely car-free, which means you can wander for hours without dodging traffic. The city was named European Green Capital back in 2016, and you’ll feel it everywhere, from the trees along the river to the bikes leaning against every café wall.
My local survival kit:
Wear comfortable shoes. Cobblestones are charming until your ankles start filing complaints. I’ve watched many stylish visitors regret their heels by noon.
Pack an umbrella. Ljubljana drizzle is a real thing, and it never asks for permission. We locals simply carry on and order another coffee.
Drink from the fountains. The tap water is excellent, so bring a bottle and refill as you go.
Don’t over-plan. The most Ljubljana thing you can do is sit by the river and watch the city go by. That’s not wasting time. That is the itinerary.
Day 1, Morning: Start Where Every Local Says “Meet Me There”
Begin at Prešeren Square. When someone in Ljubljana says “let’s meet in the centre,” this is what they mean. Dobimo se pri Prešernu (“see you at Prešeren”) is probably the most-used sentence in the city.
The square comes with its own little love story. The statue of France Prešeren, Slovenia’s most famous poet, gazes across the square towards a small relief of Julija Primic, the woman he loved but never got to marry. Think Romeo and Juliet, but with more poetry and fewer poisons. Once you know the story, you can’t stop noticing that look. I still catch myself checking on them when I walk past.
Right behind the square stands the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, impossible to miss thanks to its pink-red façade. I walk past it almost every day and I still take photos of it. No regrets.
The Triple Bridge
From the square, step straight onto the Triple Bridge, designed by the architect Jože Plečnik. You’ll hear his name a lot here. Locals talk about him a bit like a brilliant, slightly eccentric grandfather who redesigned the whole house. Three bridges side by side might sound unnecessary, but stand in the middle, look down the river, and it suddenly makes perfect sense.
Dragon Bridge and Butcher’s Bridge
A short walk along the river brings you to the Dragon Bridge, built in 1901 and guarded by four very photogenic green dragons. Legend says Jason and the Argonauts defeated a dragon here on their way home with the Golden Fleece, and the city never forgot it. Dragons are on the flag, the souvenirs and, once you’ve lived here long enough, probably in your dreams too.
On the way back, cross the Butcher’s Bridge, covered in love locks and unusual bronze sculptures. Some of them are a little strange, which is exactly why they’re my favourite.
If you want the full story behind each landmark, I’ve written a separate guide to the top attractions in Ljubljana.
Day 1, Late Morning: Market, Pastries and a Second Breakfast
By now the smell of fresh bread will find you, and there’s no point resisting. I’ve tried. It doesn’t work.
The Central Market, tucked behind Plečnik’s elegant riverside colonnades, is where locals actually do their shopping: fruit, vegetables, cheese and flowers. My advice? Go in the morning when the stalls are at their fullest, taste the samples, and accept that you’ll leave with a bag of seasonal fruit you didn’t plan to buy. We all do.
Local tip: If you’re here on a Friday during the warmer months, don’t miss Open Kitchen (Odprta kuhna), an open-air food market where restaurants from all over Slovenia cook right on the square. It’s one of my favourite Friday rituals, and the best way to taste a lot of the country in one afternoon.
Where to Grab a Pastry
Ljubljana takes its bakeries seriously, and so do I. My go-to stops are Brot for bread and pastries that taste like someone really cares, and Pekarna Osem for that perfect flaky bite. If you have a sweet tooth, Zebra is also worth a visit.
I’ve rounded up all my favourites in this guide to the best bakeries in Ljubljana.
And if you only try one traditional dessert while you’re here, make it prekmurska gibanica, a layered cake with poppy seeds, cottage cheese, walnuts and apples. It sounds like a lot. It is a lot. It’s also wonderful.
Day 1, Afternoon: Ljubljana Castle and the Best View in Town
After all that food, a little uphill walk feels deserved. Or at least that’s what I tell myself every single time.
There are two ways to reach Ljubljana Castle:
The funicular from Krekov trg, which takes you up in about a minute. Quick, easy and fun, with glass views as you climb.
On foot, along one of several paths through the trees. It takes a bit longer, but it’s a lovely walk, especially in autumn.
My advice: walk up, take the funicular down. Best of both worlds, and your legs will thank you.
At the top, head to the viewing tower. On a clear day, you’ll see the red rooftops of the Old Town, the green hills around the city and, if you’re lucky, the Julian Alps in the distance. I’ve been up there more times than I can count, and I still stand there longer than I’d like to admit.
A Glass of Wine with a View
If you’re not in a rush, stay for a drink. The castle has a lovely wine bar, and if you’re celebrating something special, Strelec, the castle’s fine dining restaurant, is an experience in itself.
Slovenian wines are still one of our best-kept secrets, which is a shame, because they deserve far more attention. If you’d like to taste more of them around town, here’s my guide to the best wine bars in Ljubljana.
Day 1, Evening: Riverside Aperitivo and Cocktails
Evenings in Ljubljana belong to the river.
As the sun goes down, the cafés along the Ljubljanica fill up with people having “just one coffee” that quietly turns into an aperitivo. This is the most local thing you can do here: grab a table by the water, order something with bubbles and do absolutely nothing for an hour. Around here, that counts as a hobby.
Later, go looking for cocktails. Ljubljana has a surprisingly creative bar scene for a city this size. Kolibri is where I take friends who love playful drinks, and Dvorni Bar is a classic right in the centre.
For more ideas, here’s my full guide to Ljubljana cocktail bars for every mood.
Hungry again? (Of course you are.) Ljubljana has a great sushi scene too. Here are my favourite sushi spots in Ljubljana.
Day 2, Morning: Brunch Like a Local
Take day two slowly, the way we do on weekends here.
Brunch is basically a sport in Ljubljana, and the competition is strong. My soft spot is Le Petit Café for its classic, slightly Parisian charm, but EK Bistro and NeuBar are excellent too, especially if you’re in the mood for something more indulgent. (NeuBar’s weekend bottomless mimosas brunch shows up in my weekly events posts more often than I’d like to admit.)
If you can’t decide (I never can), here’s my guide to the best brunch in Ljubljana.
But before the park, a small detour.
Day 2, Late Morning: Need to Work? Head to MP hub. coworking in Šiška
Okay, confession time. Even on a weekend getaway, there’s always that one email that simply can’t wait. You know the one.
Here’s my local advice: skip hunching over your laptop in a hotel room and head to MP hub. coworking in Šiška, just a short ride from the centre. It’s where I send every friend who comes “on holiday” with a laptop secretly packed in their bag. I’ve cleared entire inboxes there and planned weeks of content in one sitting.
The space is on the ground floor at Trg komandanta Staneta 8, right next to the Aleja shopping centre, and it looks out onto greenery, so it feels calm the moment you walk in. No tourist crowds, no espresso machine screaming behind you, just a quiet, bright space where you can actually focus.
What I love about it:
Fast internet. Wired and wireless, and fast enough to upload a whole batch of photos without a single sigh.
Phone booths for calls. Acoustically treated, so you can take a video call without the whole room hearing about your weekend plans.
A proper kitchen. Coffee and tea included, which is the fastest way to my heart.
A business library. More than 100 books, perfect for borrowing a few pages of inspiration.
Break-time fun. Lounge area for when your brain needs five minutes off.
The best part? The people. It’s full of freelancers, remote workers and small teams, and within ten minutes you’ll probably be swapping café recommendations with someone at the next desk. That’s the kind of tip you won’t find in a guidebook.
Local tip: If you’re a digital nomad or just need a productive spot while travelling, a coworking space beats a café table every time. Check MP hub’s website for current membership options before you go. And if you prefer working with a cappuccino in view, here are Ljubljana’s coziest cafés for remote work.
Day 2, Midday: Tivoli Park and a Rooftop Coffee
A Walk Through Tivoli Park
Walk off the brunch in Tivoli Park, Ljubljana’s green living room. It’s where we jog, walk our dogs and escape the city without actually leaving it.
Don’t miss the Jakopič Promenade, where open-air photography exhibitions line the main walkway. Every time I pass through, there’s something new to look at.
Coffee at the Top of Nebotičnik
On the way back to the centre, stop at Nebotičnik, a 1930s building that was once one of the tallest in this part of Europe. At the top there’s a café with a terrace and a lovely view over the rooftops. It’s the kind of place where one coffee becomes two.
Day 2, Afternoon: Something a Little Unexpected
If the weather turns (and in Ljubljana, it might), don’t worry. We locals have our rainy-day plans down to a science.
Spend a very silly hour at the Museum of Illusions, where nothing is what it seems, including your sense of balance. Another favourite is Arty Party, where you can paint with a glass of wine in hand. No talent required, just enthusiasm.
For more ideas like this, have a look at my list of fun things to do in Ljubljana.
Metelkova: Ljubljana’s Creative Side
If you’d like to see a completely different face of the city, take a walk through Metelkova. This former army barracks became an autonomous cultural centre, and today it’s covered in murals, sculptures and street art. It’s at its liveliest in the evenings, but even in daylight it’s fascinating.
One Last Scoop
End your weekend the way I end most summer evenings: with ice cream. Even in the colder months, I always find room for one more scoop. Here’s where to find the best ice cream in Ljubljana.
Practical Tips for Your Ljubljana Weekend
Getting Around Ljubljana
The good news? You’ll mostly be walking, just like we do. The Old Town is compact, and most of the places in this guide are a short stroll from each other.
A few other options:
Kavalir: small electric vehicles that move around the car-free centre. They’re especially helpful if you have mobility issues or just tired feet.
City buses: run by LPP. Check the official LPP website for the latest ticket and payment options before you travel.
BicikeLJ: the city’s bike-sharing system, perfect for getting from the centre to Tivoli Park or along the river.
Getting From the Airport
Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport is north of the city, so you’ll need a bus, shuttle or taxi to reach the centre. I’ve covered all the options in my Ljubljana Airport guide.
Is the Ljubljana Card Worth It?
If you’re planning to visit the castle, take the funicular and see a few museums, the Ljubljana Card can be a good option. Check what’s included on the official Visit Ljubljana website and compare it with your plans before buying.
When to Visit
Having lived through every season here, I can honestly say there’s no bad time. Spring and summer are perfect for river terraces and Open Kitchen, autumn turns Tivoli Park golden, and in December the whole city lights up for the festive season, with sparkling streets and stands along the river serving mulled wine and treats. (December is secretly my favourite.)
Got More Time? Add a Day Trip
One of the best things about living in Ljubljana is that the rest of Slovenia is so close. These are the day trips I recommend to every visitor:
Lake Bled, for the postcard view and the famous cream cake.
Lake Bohinj, the calmer, wilder sister of Bled.
Kranjska Gora, Lake Jasna and Zelenci, for mountains and turquoise water.
Piran and Portorož, if you’re craving the sea.
Final Thoughts: Is 48 Hours in Ljubljana Enough?
Enough to fall in love? Absolutely. Enough to see everything? Not quite, and believe me, even living here I’m still discovering new corners.
Ljubljana isn’t a city you tick off a list. It’s a city you sit in. Walk along the river without a plan, order one more coffee, take one more photo of the pink church, and suddenly the weekend is over and you’re already wondering when you can come back.
Before you arrive, check my weekly events in Ljubljana posts so you know what’s happening in the city while you’re here. And if you have any questions before your trip, leave a comment or send me a DM on Instagram. I love playing tour guide for my city.
See you by the river.
Truly yours,
The Creation of Us
P.S.: Some of the links are affiliate links, meaning if you click through and make a purchase, I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thanks for your support!
