Dear travelers,
Zagreb holds a special place in my heart. Back in 2018, I lived there for six months during an exchange program, and ever since, I’ve made it a tradition to visit the city’s Christmas market every year. What makes this market so special to me? Unlike others that are confined to a single spot or spread across distant locations, Zagreb’s Christmas market feels connected. You can begin at one point and seamlessly explore it as it flows from place to place. So, let’s start!
Travel Tip: If you’re visiting Zagreb from Ljubljana, the train is your best option. The journey takes about two hours, and a return ticket costs 18 €. This way, you won’t need to worry about parking, which can be a challenge during the market season. Plus, the train station is conveniently located in the city center, so you can start exploring as soon as you arrive!

First Stop: King Tomislav Square – Ice Rink Wonderland
Our adventure begins at King Tomislav Square, where an open-air ice rink steals the show. Picture this: skaters gliding gracefully (or not so gracefully!) under the fairy lights. Even if skating isn’t your thing, the energy here is amazing. Grab a steaming cup of mulled wine or hot chocolate from one of the stalls nearby and soak up the holiday spirit as kids and adults enjoy the winter wonderland.
Confession time: I’ve never actually gone ice skating here—the waiting line is always so long!

Fuliranje: Strossmayer Square’s Culinary Carnival
Just a short walk away is Fuliranje, which translates to “Fooling Around” — and that’s exactly what this spot is about. It’s lively, and full of fun. Think gourmet street food, creative decorations, and live music that gets everyone in a festive mood. Try some fritule (mini doughnuts) or a sausage, and don’t miss the chance to snap some photos of the funky, colorful setup here.

Zrinjevac Park: Lose Yourself in the Lights
Next up, step into the fairy tale in Zrinjevac Park. The park’s ancient trees are wrapped in thousands of twinkling lights, and charming wooden huts line the pathways, offering everything from handmade ornaments to traditional desserts. At the center of it all is a historic musical pavilion, where live performances often fill the air with Christmas carols. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel like you’re in a holiday movie.
We enjoyed a cup of mulled wine here, which costs €3.50, plus €5 for the cup. You can either keep the cup as a souvenir or return it to get your money back. In addition to mulled wine, there are also other hot cocktails available, priced at around €7.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square: The Heart of the Market
Your next stop is the Ban Josip Jelačić Square. In the center of the square is the Christmas tree, while on the other side there are many stalls with with holiday goodies. Make sure to stop at the Manduševac Fountain, a historic landmark that’s beautifully decorated for the season.
This square is more than just a festive spot; it’s the heart of Zagreb, connecting the Upper Town with the Lower Town. Everything I’ve mentioned so far—the ice rink at King Tomislav Square, the charming Zrinjevac Park—belongs to the Lower Town, which developed in the 19th century.
The Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is the oldest part of Zagreb, with origins dating back to the medieval period, around the 11th and 12th centuries. Here’s what you can explore:
- St. Mark’s Church: Famous for the tiled roof, this church features the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia. It’s a symbol of the city and a perfect spot for photos.
- Lotrščak Tower: Don’t miss the daily tradition of the cannon firing from the tower at noon, a practice that dates back to the 19th century. The tower also offers beautiful views of the city.
- Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata): This is the only remaining gate from Zagreb’s medieval walls and now serves as a chapel. Many locals come here to light candles and pray.
- Museum of Broken Relationships: A quirky and emotional museum showcasing mementos from past relationships, this spot is both unique and thought-provoking.
- Tkalčićeva Street: A lively pedestrian street with plenty of cafés, bars, and restaurants. It’s the perfect spot to relax with a coffee or enjoy lunch. My recommendations: El Greco (bringing the taste of Greece to Zagreb; think souvlaki & gyros), Otto & Frank (don’t miss their famous breakfasts and burgers), and Kungfu Express (quick, flavorful Asian-inspired dishes). Also, this street has a fascinating past. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, it was known as Potok Street and served as Zagreb’s red-light district, with brothels and taverns lining its path.
Getting to the Upper Town is easy. It’s about a 15-minute walk from Ban Jelačić Square. The route involves a gentle uphill walk, leading you to Kamenita Vrata. Alternatively, you can take the Zagreb Funicular, one of the world’s shortest funicular rides. The ride takes just 64 seconds, costs €0.66 one way, and offers a unique way to reach the Upper Town.

European Square: Hip and Modern Vibes
A short walk from Ban Jelačić brings you to European Square, where the market takes on a trendy twist. This is the spot to enjoy craft beer, fusion food, and a slightly younger, urban crowd. The vibe here is energetic but cozy, perfect for soaking in the more modern side of Zagreb’s holiday celebrations.

Advent u Prolazu: Hidden Festive Gem
Finally, we head to Advent u Prolazu, hidden in one of Zagreb’s charming passageways. It’s smaller and more intimate than the bigger squares but offers a peaceful end to your adventure. The vibe here is cozy and intimate and it’s the perfect place to relax with a hot chocolate and reflect on the day’s adventures.

Tips for Your Zagreb Christmas Market Adventure:
- Timing is everything: Start your walk in the late afternoon to catch both the daytime charm and the magical glow of the evening lights.
- Dress warmly: It gets chilly, so bundle up and bring a scarf!
- Enjoy the moment: Don’t rush—grab a snack, sip some mulled wine, and take time to enjoy the festive energy.
If you decide to spend the night in Zagreb, check my recommendations. Zagreb at Christmas is more than a market; it’s a journey into joy, tradition, and the festive spirit of Croatia. Each stop on this walking tour tells its own story, inviting you to taste, see, and feel the season’s magic. So go ahead, take that first step—you won’t want the night to end.
Truly yours,
The Creation of Us