Dear travelers,
If your idea of a Greek island holiday includes turquoise water, little coastal villages, long beach days and enough feta to temporarily forget vegetables other than tomatoes exist, Corfu probably already has your attention.
It definitely had mine.
We visited Corfu in September, when summer was technically coming to an end but Greece clearly hadn’t received the memo. We still had warm days, plenty of beach time and that very specific feeling of refusing to accept that autumn exists.
But Corfu also surprised me.
Before visiting, I imagined Paleokastritsa as one beautiful, big beach. I thought driving 25 kilometers across a relatively small island would take no time at all. And I definitely didn’t expect a beach that was originally just a stop on the way to our hotel to become my favorite beach of the entire trip.
So, instead of giving you another list of “20 things you MUST do in Corfu,” I want to take you through the trip exactly as we experienced it: what we did, where we stayed, which beaches we loved, what I would skip next time and what I genuinely wish I had known before booking.
Grab a coffee, preferably somewhere overlooking the Ionian Sea and let’s go to Corfu.
Our Corfu Itinerary at a Glance
We divided our holiday into two parts. For the first three days, we stayed in Corfu Town, where we could explore without a car and take a full-day boat trip.
Then we rented a car and moved to Paleokastritsa for the beach portion of the trip.
Our itinerary looked something like this:
- Day 1: Zagreb → Corfu → Corfu Town → beach
- Day 2: Paxos & Antipaxos boat trip
- Day 3: Check out → pick up rental car → Glyfada Beach → Paleokastritsa
- Following days: Paleokastritsa beaches, beach bars, La Grotta and the monastery viewpoint
- Road-trip day: Sidari → Canal d’Amour → Agios Georgios
- Last day: Agios Gordios Beach → return rental car → Corfu Airport
Looking back, splitting the trip between a city base and a beach base was a great decision.
Would I choose exactly the same beach base next time?
We’ll get to that.
Flying to Corfu from Zagreb
We flew Ryanair from Zagreb to Corfu.
Since we were driving to Zagreb Airport, we left our car at Parking Zagreb Airport, where we paid around €44 for one week.
They also provide a shuttle to the airport, which made everything easy: park the car, get in the shuttle and start mentally transitioning into holiday mode.
Before our flight, we spent some time in the airport lounge (thanks to Diners card and the biggest reason to have this card), which is always my preferred way of convincing myself that waiting at an airport is actually a sophisticated activity.
Then it was time for Corfu.
How to Get from Corfu Airport to Corfu Town
One of my first recommendations is: don’t automatically rent a car the second you land.
If you’re staying in Corfu Town first, you may not need one.
We took the local bus from Corfu Airport into town. The ride took us roughly 15 minutes, and we paid around €2 per person.
It was easy, cheap and meant we didn’t have to think about parking during our first few days.
We waited until we were leaving Corfu Town to pick up our rental car, and I would do exactly the same again.
Where We Stayed in Corfu Town
For our first three days, we stayed at Theodore’s Cosy Apartment in Corfu Town.
The biggest advantage was the location: we were right in the center and could explore on foot.
The bathroom?
Possibly the smallest bathroom I’ve ever seen.
You know those bathrooms where you’re pretty sure you could shower, brush your teeth and use the toilet without moving from the same spot? That.
But for a few nights, location won.
And because we weren’t planning to spend our Corfu holiday sitting inside our apartment admiring the bathroom architecture, it worked perfectly well.
Day 1: Straight to the Beach
After arriving, checking in and dropping off our luggage, there was only one reasonable thing to do. Go to the beach.
We found Kontokali Beach, approximately 30 minutes from Corfu Town and spent our first afternoon by the sea.
And this was when we realized that September in Corfu can still feel very much like summer.
The weather was warm, the beach was calling and suddenly everyone back home posting autumn candles and pumpkin recipes felt very far away.
We did have some rain later during our trip, and after that we noticed the sea felt considerably colder. So September weather can obviously change, but overall, we still got plenty of beach time.
Day 2: Paxos & Antipaxos Boat Trip
The next morning, it was time for one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip: a full-day boat excursion to Paxos and Antipaxos.
If you have several days in Corfu, I really recommend keeping one day free for a boat trip. There is something about seeing the Ionian coastline from the water that completely changes your perspective.
Our journey to Paxos took around two hours. Once there, we had approximately two to three hours of free time, which we used for a little exploring and, naturally, coffee.
Swimming Around Antipaxos
Then came Antipaxos.
And this was the moment when the Ionian Sea decided to show off.
We had a swimming stop around Paradise Beach, and the water was almost ridiculously beautiful: crystal clear with that bright blue-turquoise color that normally makes you suspicious someone has turned the saturation up to 100.
Except this time, it actually looked like that.
It was easily one of the best swimming experiences of the trip.
The Sea Caves of Paxos
The tour also took us along Paxos’ dramatic coastline and into its famous sea caves.
From the boat, you get a completely different view of the cliffs: enormous rock walls rising above intensely blue water, with caves carved into the coastline.
Day 3: Goodbye Corfu Town, Hello Rental Car
On our third day, we checked out of the apartment and picked up our rental car. This was where the second half of the trip officially started. And also where we learned our first important lesson about driving in Corfu:
Distance means almost nothing.
Okay, slight exaggeration. But only slight. Corfu isn’t a huge island, so you look at Google Maps, see “25 km” and think, Perfect, we’ll be there in 25 minutes.
No.
Some roads are narrow. Others are very narrow. We encountered potholes, winding sections and roads where I spent more time looking at the edges than at the scenery.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t rent a car — actually, I think having one made our trip much better.
Just don’t plan your days based purely on kilometers.
Glyfada Beach: Our Favorite Beach in Corfu
Our first stop with the rental car was Glyfada Beach, on the way to Paleokastritsa. This was supposed to be one beach stop among many.
Instead, it became our favorite beach of the entire trip. We visited around five or six beaches in Corfu, and if you asked me which one I would return to first, my answer would be Glyfada. I love larger sandy beaches, and Glyfada gave me exactly that. The water was perfect when we visited, too.
How Much Are Sunbeds in Corfu?
Let’s talk about something every beach holiday eventually comes down to: How much is it going to cost me to lie horizontally all day?
At several of the more touristy beaches we visited, two sunbeds and an umbrella cost around €30, with no food or drinks included.
But we also found places where the setup was much better. At some less touristy beach bars, you might have a minimum spend of around €20–€30, but that money could then be used for food and drinks.
So before choosing your sunbeds, ask:
- Is this a rental fee?
- Is there a minimum spend?
- Are food and drinks included in that amount?
- Is there a time limit?
And if you’re planning cocktails with a sea view, budget for those too. At many places we visited, cocktails started at around €14.
Paleokastritsa: Expectation vs. Reality
Eventually, we arrived at our second base: Paleokastritsa. We stayed at Paleokastritsa Palace, and before arriving, I had a very specific image in my head.
One huge, beautiful beach. That is not Paleokastritsa.
Paleokastritsa is actually made up of six coves and beaches, surrounded by steep green hills and dramatic rock formations. Its central beach is Agios Spyridon.
Once you understand that, all those Paleokastritsa photos suddenly make much more sense.
The area is gorgeous. There are little bays, clear water, boats, cliffs and greenery everywhere.
But many of the beaches we experienced were smaller and pebbly, and I’m very much a give-me-a-long-sandy-beach person.
Would I Stay in Paleokastritsa Again?
Probably not. Would I visit again? Absolutely.
There’s a difference.
If you love little coves, pebbly beaches, rocky swimming spots and moving between different bays, Paleokastritsa might be exactly what you want.
If, like me, your perfect beach involves a long stretch of sand where you can walk for ages, somewhere like Glyfada might suit you better.
Knowing that before booking can completely change where you choose to stay.
Aragosta Beach Club
Around Paleokastritsa’s main beach, we visited Aragosta Beach Club, which has much more of that polished beach-club feeling.
Think stylish setting, cocktails and a slightly fancier beach-day atmosphere.
Unsurprisingly, that also means it’s not the cheapest option.
But if you want one afternoon where the agenda is basically sit somewhere pretty, order a cocktail and pretend emails don’t exist, it fits the brief.
Paleokastritsa Monastery & the Viewpoint
One of my favorite things we did in Paleokastritsa didn’t involve a sunbed at all. Close to the main beach, you can walk uphill toward the Monastery of the Virgin of Paleokastritsa.
From the main beach area, our walk took around 15 minutes. Go later in the day.
The views across the coastline are beautiful, especially as the light starts changing around sunset.
After spending the day at the beach, walking up here became one of those simple travel moments that stays with you more than expected.
La Grotta: 142 Steps Later…
Directly across from where we were staying was another place I had been excited to see: La Grotta.
This is not your typical sandy beach.
It’s a rocky inlet with a bar built into the landscape and incredibly clear water below.
And to reach it?
142 steps.
Yes, someone officially counted them, so I don’t have to.
Going down is fine.
Coming back up after a cocktail and a full day of swimming is where your relationship with those stairs becomes slightly more complicated.
Still, I would go again.
The views are fantastic, and the entire setting feels completely different from a traditional beach bar.
Akron Beach Bar
Another day, we stayed closer to the hotel and visited Akron Beach Bar. This was one of the advantages of basing ourselves in Paleokastritsa: even though I wouldn’t necessarily choose it again for a full beach stay, we had several different swimming spots and beach bars nearby.
You don’t have to spend every day in exactly the same place. One morning can be a little bay, another afternoon a beach club, and another evening a sunset viewpoint.
Road Trip to Sidari & Canal d’Amour
One day, we decided to explore northern Corfu and drove towards Sidari and the famous Canal d’Amour. This was the drive that really demonstrated my earlier point about distances. We had around 25 kilometers to travel. It took almost an hour.
So please, when building your Corfu itinerary, don’t create one of those Google Maps masterpieces involving eight beaches, three villages and dinner on the opposite side of the island. You will spend your holiday in the car.
Canal d’Amour itself is one of Corfu’s most recognizable natural landmarks, known for its distinctive sandstone formations on the northwestern coast. According to local legend, couples who swim through the channel together will stay in love forever. Another version says that single people who swim through the channel while thinking of the person they love will eventually marry them.
After exploring the area, we continued towards our next beach.
Agios Georgios: Big, Beautiful & Much Quieter
From Sidari, it took us around 20 minutes to reach Agios Georgios. And this beach felt completely different again.
It was large, open and noticeably less crowded when we visited. The drive itself was beautiful, so even though getting around Corfu often took longer than expected, this was one of those times when the journey was part of the experience.
Agios Georgios gave us another chance to see just how different Corfu’s beaches can be from one another before heading back to Paleokastritsa.
Our Last Day: Agios Gordios Beach
For our final day in Corfu, we visited Agios Gordios Beach and yes, Agios Gordios and Agios Georgios are two completely different places, despite the very similar names.
Agios Gordios was a great choice for our last few hours on the island. The beach is huge, and when we visited, it wasn’t particularly crowded, so we could enjoy one final swim without feeling rushed.
It was also conveniently located for our flight home.
From Agios Gordios, we had roughly a 30-minute drive towards Corfu Airport. We returned our rental car close to the airport, and the rental company then drove us to the terminal.
Honestly, this is how I want every Greek island trip to end:
One last beach → return the car → airport → immediately start missing Greece.
Do You Need a Car in Corfu?
Based on our itinerary, I would say yes — but not necessarily for the entire holiday.
Our setup worked really well:
Corfu Town: no rental car.
Exploring the rest of Corfu: rental car.
While staying in Corfu Town, we could walk, use the airport bus and take our boat excursion. Once we wanted to move between beaches and explore places such as Glyfada, Paleokastritsa, Sidari and Agios Georgios, having our own car became incredibly useful.
A few things to remember if you’re driving:
- Expect narrow roads.
- Watch for potholes.
- Don’t underestimate journey times.
- Allow extra time for winding roads.
- Avoid overloading each day with stops.
- If you’re not confident driving on narrow roads, plan your route beforehand.
Where Should You Stay in Corfu?
This is probably the biggest thing I wish I had understood before our trip. There isn’t one “best” area. It depends entirely on the holiday you want.
Stay in Corfu Town if…
You want restaurants, architecture, evening walks, easy access to boat excursions and a more lively city atmosphere.
It’s also a great choice for the beginning or end of your trip if you don’t want to rent a car immediately.
Stay in Paleokastritsa if…
You love dramatic scenery, little bays, clear water, rocky landscapes, beach bars and having several swimming spots close together.
Official tourism information describes Paleokastritsa’s coastline as a combination of coves, grottoes and deep turquoise water — which is exactly its appeal.
Choose Glyfada or Another Sandy-Beach Area if…
Your idea of a perfect beach holiday looks more like mine:
sand + space + sea + repeat.
Corfu has an incredibly varied coastline, from long sandy beaches to white-pebble coves and rocky formations, so choosing your base based on beach type is genuinely important.
Was Corfu Worth Visiting?
Yes, but perhaps not for the reason I expected. I thought Paleokastritsa would be the highlight. Instead, I fell in love with Glyfada.
I thought Corfu’s size meant we could quickly drive everywhere. Instead, 25 kilometers became an hour-long road trip.
I thought September might feel like the very end of the season. Instead, we were swimming in turquoise water and pretending autumn didn’t exist.
And that’s exactly why I love trips like this.
You can research a destination for weeks, save 57 Instagram reels and create the world’s most organized Google Maps list and the place you remember most might still be the random beach you decided to stop at on the way somewhere else.
Corfu isn’t a one-beach-fits-all kind of island. Within the same trip, you can wander through Corfu Town, swim in tiny turquoise coves, stretch out on long sandy beaches, cruise around Paxos and Antipaxos, climb 142 stairs to a rocky beach bar, chase sunsets and somehow spend an hour driving 25 kilometers. And for a food guide, check this blog.
Truly yours,
The Creation of Us
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